Fitting a fence panel that is 6 foot wide on your own is difficult due to normal arm reach but here is a solution I came up that made it so much easier. Fence post diggers and augers are great tools for removing aged cemented fence posts but even they require a good amount of work to operate and can take the average weekend warrior anywhere from 2-5 hours to disassemble a fence, then dig and remove the buried concrete. How to Trim Fence Post Heights. Despite your best efforts at measuring and digging post holes to the correct depth, setting all the posts to the exact same height proves difficult, if not impossible. Place the blank against the fence and lower the bit. Adjust the fence and blank so the point of the Forstner bit enters the small punched hole. Clamp the fence in place, slide the blank to the mark at the other end of the slot and check that it’s aligned properly. Put a mark on the edge of the board that’s against the fence.

Pressure Treated Wood Fencing

These wood posts and poles are all pressure treated with MCA (Micro Copper Azole) wood preservative for ground contact.

The treatment protects the wood against decay and wood-destroying insects. The chemicals leave the wood a light green color. Post diameter indicates the measurement at the small end of the post or minimum diameter.

Galvanized or stainless steel fasteners are recommended for use in preserved wood. Do not use treated wood in direct contact with aluminum. Ask for a Safe Handling Information Sheet for use and handling recommendations. Never burn treated wood. Wear dust mask and goggles when cutting or sanding treated wood. Wear gloves when working with treated wood.

Round Posts & Poles

Square Posts & Poles

Corral Poles

Pressure treated MCA. Machine turned with uniform diameter from end to end. Actual length is 16’0″ for 8′ post centers.

16’x4″ $20.55

Western Post & Rail

Posts are drilled 16″ on center to accept rails and have domed tops. Fence rails are 8′ in length and available in a 4″ Uniform Diameter, doweled to 2″ diameter to fit in posts. Give your estate this rustic and attractive fencing and enjoy years of the best looking wooden ranch fence available. Stop in and look at the quality and you’ll agree. Per foot prices based on 1 line post and 1, 2, 3, or 4 rails as required. All pressure treated MCA.

Four Rail finishes at approximate 60″ top ail heigh with posts set 30″ deep. End and corner posts are larger 6″ diameter for use as gate posts. Rails spaced at 16″ centers, top rail is centered 6″ from the top of the post.

= Shortage, Please Check Availability.

> > Well, you could get all tooled up with a hollow chisel mortiser,
> > or all burly with a mallet and a mortising chisel,
> > but if you are more into getting the job done fisrly fast and
> > not buying fancy tools, a good sized router with a carbide bit
> > and a jig should get the job done

> This router approach is kinda what I had in mind when I asked my

> question. I suspected it was a rail-type of fence. You probably
> wouldn't have to go all the way through...just a couple of inches
> to allow the boards to be inserted and fastened.

I should have thought of that. No need to go all the way through the
posts, except that it means the slots are automatically aligned
properly.

I have a floor-standing drill press with a cross-slide vice, I also have
a relatively large router - but no router table. It would be more of a
hassle to set the router up to do these posts vs the drill press.

I suppose I could use a router bit on the drill press.

There are also drills that cut side-ways (don't know what they're called
exactly). If these are cedar posts, I suppose it's soft enough to try
one of those drills instead of a 1' diam x 2' deep router bit.

Slot In Fence Posts At Home Depot

> > Pay attention to drainage or you'll have rotted boards in
> > short order.

Slot In Fence Posts Barbed

I've had some good experience with using PL-Premium adhesive on exposed,
outdoor wood. Seems to hold up well under intermittent water exposure,
and winter/summer temperature swings. I'm thinking that using liberal
amounts of that glue to hold the boards in the slots (and sealing up the
slots in the process) might be the way to go. Yes?